Approving an apparel sample should close a defined decision, not silently approve everything about an order. A prototype can resolve construction while leaving the production fabric open. A fit approval can establish a base-size reference without approving the full size range. A pre-production sample can still contain an identified substitution that prevents release of the affected component.
The practical control is an approval record that states what was reviewed, against which specification, by whom, and what may happen next. Keep that record connected to the purchase order and the physical references. Its contractual effect depends on the parties’ agreement; a photograph or a signature alone does not settle every acceptance condition.
Golden sample, sealed sample, PP sample: what the words mean
Buyers and factories use these terms loosely, and the same word can mean different things to each side. Agree the meaning in writing for your order.
| Term | Usual meaning | What to confirm |
|---|---|---|
| Golden sample | The approved physical reference that bulk must match; often the approved PP sample or a sample made from it | Which sample it is, which sizes and colours it covers, and who holds copies |
| Sealed sample | A reference that is tagged, signed or sealed by both sides so it cannot be swapped or altered | Seal method, record number, storage and how the inspector accesses it |
| PP (pre-production) sample | Made with production fabric, trims, labels and process before bulk starts | Whether every production component is present or some are substitutes |
| TOP (top-of-production) sample | Taken from the first bulk output | That bulk matches the PP and golden reference, before most of the order is made |
| Counter sample | A sample the factory makes back to the buyer’s reference to show it can match it | What it is being compared with and which differences are acceptable |
A golden sample is only useful if the documents point to it. The approval record, the measurement chart and the inspection instruction should all name the same sample ID, and the sample should carry its tag. The fields for that record are in sealed sample approval records.
Build the approval chain around decisions
Sample names differ between suppliers. Agree the purpose and required materials for each round rather than relying on the name alone. Some projects combine stages; others need several revisions within a stage. Combined stages are useful only when the evidence needed for each decision is actually available.
| Review stage | Decision to resolve | Evidence to request | What remains separate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Prototype or development | Construction, proportions and unresolved design questions | Sample reference, construction notes, identified substitutes | Final fit, production materials and tests not yet completed |
| Fit sample | Pattern and measurements for the reviewed body profile | Measured specification, fit observations and proposed corrections | Untested sizes, colors and care behavior |
| Size set | How the approved fit develops across the size range | Size-by-size measurements, grade increments and fitting evidence | Material or construction changes made after this review |
| Pre-production sample | Whether the proposed production configuration matches the agreed brief | Actual material references, labels, decoration, packing and relevant results | Production consistency and shipment inspection |
Use the sampling process guide to plan what each round is for. This protocol deals with the record and authority that turn the review into a controlled instruction.
Give every sample a traceable identity
Record the style code, sample number, stage, revision, color, size and date received. Identify the fabric and trim references, pattern revision, decoration artwork and label versions. Photograph identifying tags alongside the garment so an image can be traced back to the reviewed piece.
List substitutions explicitly. If the correct zipper is unavailable, record the zipper fitted to the sample and the reference proposed for production. Decide which observations remain useful and which must be repeated with the correct component. Do not let “PP sample” hide the fact that part of the final configuration has not been reviewed.
Agree measurement methods and tolerances before comparing results. State whether a dimension is a flat width or a circumference, where it is measured, and whether the garment is new, conditioned or washed. Keep measured results separate from target values.
Assign approval authority before comments arrive
Name a person responsible for consolidating comments and issuing the current decision. Technical, design, merchandising and packaging reviewers can have different responsibilities, but the factory should receive one reconciled instruction rather than several conflicting messages.
Record who can approve each scope and who can authorize production release. A design reviewer may accept the appearance while a technical reviewer keeps fit open. A buyer may accept a documented packaging change without accepting a material substitution. These are different decisions and should have separate entries.
Ask the production contact to acknowledge receipt of the current approved version. Sending a file to a salesperson does not establish that the cutting, sewing and inspection teams are working from it.
Use a record that separates observations from decisions
The following is a reusable field list. Replace the brackets with project information; it is not a completed Knitwear Base approval.
| Field | Entry to complete |
|---|---|
| Identification | [Order, style, sample ID, stage, revision, color, size] |
| Reference documents | [Tech pack revision, measurement sheet, BOM, artwork and pack specification] |
| Materials actually used | [Fabric, trims and known substitutions] |
| Evidence reviewed | [Measurements, fit notes, photos, wash results and test report references] |
| Scope approved | [Specific features, sizes, colors and review stage] |
| Open items | [Issue, affected scope, owner and required response] |
| Decision | [Approved for stated scope / revision required / not assessed / not applicable with reason] |
| Next action | [Resubmit sample, provide evidence, update specification or proceed with stated operation] |
| Authority and record | [Approver, date, current file location and factory acknowledgment] |
For the physical reference and inspection handoff, also use the sealed sample record guide.
Make revision comments executable
Write the observed issue first, then the required response and the evidence needed to close it. For example: “The reviewed sleeve is below the current specified length. Confirm the measured value and cause, correct the affected pattern or production measurement, and resubmit the agreed size for review.” This avoids prescribing a pattern change before checking whether the sample was simply made outside the existing specification.
If a measurement target changes, revise the specification as well as the comments. Identify the affected sizes and ask whether the change alters connected areas such as armhole, sleeve cap or cuff. Consolidate approved changes into the next numbered revision and mark earlier versions as superseded.
Avoid an ambiguous “approved with comments.” State whether the comments require a replacement sample, documentary evidence or a correction that may proceed without another physical round. If approval is limited to fit, say that production materials and outstanding tests are not approved by that decision.
Keep washing, packing and remote review visible
Record the laundering procedure, drying method, cycle count and measurement condition for any wash assessment. Attach the before-and-after results. Review the garment’s appearance and relevant components as well as its dimensions; a zipper, elastic-bearing edge or decoration may behave differently after care.
Packing approval should identify contents, fold, labels, retail unit and any agreed carton reference. A garment approval does not automatically approve an unreviewed pack. Keep a photograph of the approved presentation alongside the garment record.
Remote photographs and videos can support review, but they do not independently establish hand feel, wearer comfort or unrecorded measurements. Identify which checks were completed by an on-site reviewer and which remain open. Request a physical sample when the unresolved decision requires one.
Close the record before releasing the affected production
Before release, reconcile the current specification, sample identity, material references and open-item list. Confirm that the required decisions are closed for the scope being released. Record any exclusions and who authorized them; do not allow a blank field to mean approval.
Retain agreed physical references with consistent identification at the buyer and supplier where practical. Give the inspector the current record, measurement requirements, defect definitions and agreed sampling plan. Sample approval establishes a reference, while production and shipment checks assess whether the order follows it.
When material, pattern, decoration or supplier inputs change, review which earlier decisions are affected. Reapproval should follow the change’s impact rather than automatically restarting every stage or automatically carrying every approval forward.
Worked example: hoodie sample approval
Hoodies show why each round has to be scoped. A hood, a rib, a drawcord and a print can each change between rounds, and each affects a different approval. This is an illustration of scope, not a fixed sequence.
| Round | Decisions to close on a hoodie | Keep open |
|---|---|---|
| Prototype | Body shape, hood shape and depth, pocket style, zip or pullover, print or embroidery placement in principle | Production fleece, final rib, colour |
| Fit sample | Body and sleeve measurements, hood opening, shoulder and armhole, rib cuff and hem tension at base size | Other sizes, wash behaviour |
| Size set | Grade at range ends; hood and pocket proportions across sizes | Bulk shade, print durability |
| PP / golden sample | Production fleece and rib in bulk colour, drawcord and tips, labels, print or embroidery, wash results, fold and polybag | Bulk consistency (checked at TOP and final inspection) |
Common hoodie-specific failures to check at the PP stage: rib cuffs and hem that stay baggy after washing (matching ribbing), prints cracking (print cracking), and drawcord tips. For what to request with hoodie samples, see hoodie samples for wholesale orders and hoodie pre-production approval. Drawstrings in children’s upper outerwear are subject to CPSC guidance, so check it before approving any kids’ hoodie.
After approval: TOP sample and inspection
Approval sets the reference; it does not show that bulk matches. Ask for a top-of-production sample from the first output and compare it with the golden sample before most of the order is made. Final inspection sampling is normally agreed using ISO 2859-1, with defect definitions and the golden sample as the reference. For reorders, see when to reapprove on a reorder.
Questions buyers ask
Does every order need four separate sample rounds?
No universal sequence fits every program. Agree the decisions and evidence first, then decide which stages can responsibly be combined and which need separate samples.
Can approval of the base size cover the size range?
Only with an agreed basis and a clear statement of scope. Keep unreviewed sizes visible and obtain the size-set evidence required by the project.
What should we send when requesting a sample review?
Send the current specification, sample identities, consolidated comments and the decisions the next round must resolve. Use Knitwear Base’s contact page to discuss the sample plan, responsibilities and project-specific timing.
Sources and further reading
- ISO 2859-1:2026, Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes (AQL)
- CPSC, Drawstrings in Children’s Upper Outerwear
Rules and standards are summarised from their official pages for general guidance; this is not legal advice. Check the current version and the requirements of your own market before you rely on them.
