Sublimation or screen print: which should we use on polyester activewear, and which on cotton tees?
Sublimation dyes the fibre and needs polyester, while screen print sits on the surface and suits cotton. Match the method to the fabric, and test heat, washing and rubbing.
We plan all-over prints on polyester running tops and a chest print on cotton tees. A decorator says sublimation for both. Which method suits which fabric, and what should we check?
Main answer
Sublimation and screen print put colour on a garment in different ways, so each suits different fibres. The decision starts with the fabric: polyester, cotton or a blend. Choosing the method before the fabric is a common reason for dull or cracked prints.
How sublimation works
In sublimation, dye is transferred with heat and goes into polyester fibre rather than sitting on top of it. It gives soft, stretchy, all-over prints with no added layer, and it works best on white or light polyester. Cotton does not take the dye in the same way, so colours on cotton or low-polyester blends tend to be dull or fade.
How screen print works
Screen print pushes ink through a mesh, one screen per colour, so the colour sits on the fabric surface. It works on cotton and blends, can be opaque on dark colours and is a good choice for chest logos and simple graphics. It adds some surface feel, and heavy ink layers can reduce stretch on performance fabrics.
Pairing method and fabric
For polyester activewear, sublimation suits all-over and detailed prints, while screen print can work for a simple logo if the ink stretches with the fabric. For cotton tees, screen print is usually the safer route. Ask the decorator to print on your actual fabric, not a stock sample.
Colour and cost
Sublimation dyes are transparent, so the printed colour depends on the colour of the polyester underneath, and white or light fabric gives the truest result. Sublimation does not need a screen for each colour, so a many-coloured design may cost little more than a simple one, while screen print generally costs more as colours are added. Ask for quotes at the quantities you plan.
Tests to request
Request colourfastness to laundering, ISO 105-C06, rubbing, ISO 105-X12, perspiration, ISO 105-E04, and dry heat, ISO 105-P01, which is relevant because heat is part of transfer and pressing. Check the print after several washes. On dark polyester, ask whether dye migration was tested.
What to approve
Approve a washed print on the final fabric and record colour reference, print size and position, and washing instructions in the tech pack.
Sources and further reading
- ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
- ISO 105-P01:1993 — Colour fastness to dry heat (excluding pressing)
- ISO 105-X12:2016 — Colour fastness to rubbing
- ISO 105-E04:2013 — Colour fastness to perspiration
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd ask each decorator to print on our real fabric and send washed, rubbed and heat-tested samples before we agree a method.
Merchandising perspective
All-over prints sell on activewear, but a cotton tee that looks washed out in the first week costs more than the print saved, so match method to fibre.
QC perspective
We'd check colour, edge sharpness and hand feel on washed pieces and compare them with the approved print, especially on dark polyester.
Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.
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