Sourcing T-Shirts in China: Fabric Weight and Quote Structure

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Comparing T-shirt suppliers in China starts with agreeing what each price includes. A low quote may use a lighter fabric, a different neck rib or a packing format that leaves work for the buyer. Country of manufacture does not make those quotations comparable.

Use fabric weight as one controlled input alongside composition, knit, yarn preparation, finishing and garment measurements. Then separate production cost from development, decoration, packaging and delivery. This gives the purchasing team specific questions to resolve before selecting a supplier.

Fix the garment before comparing factories

Issue the same dated specification and color-by-size order matrix to every supplier. Include the intended fit, body and rib references, decoration files, required labels and packing. Where an item is undecided, ask suppliers to price the same provisional assumption and identify it clearly.

GSM measures fabric mass per unit area. It does not by itself guarantee opacity, durability or a particular feel. Two jerseys with the same GSM can differ in structure, yarn and finish. Compare physical samples under the same conditions before deciding which specification deserves the order.

Avoid treating lightweight, retail weight and heavyweight as universal categories. Ask for the actual finished weight and agreed tolerance. State when the weight is checked, since laundering and finishing can change area and therefore the measured GSM.

Use a quote-normalization sheet

The useful comparison is between included work, assumptions and unresolved exposure. Ask each supplier to complete the same rows. A blank cell should be answered, not interpreted as included.

Cost or conditionCommon basis to requestDifference to investigate
Body fabricSame composition, construction, finish and GSMStock quality substituted for custom specification
ConsumptionActual pattern and proposed size ratioAllowance, width or utilization differs
Neck rib and sewingSame rib quality, seam details and hem finishSimplified collar, omitted tape or different construction
DecorationSame artwork, positions, dimensions and approved methodSetup excluded or process changed
DevelopmentPattern, grading, sample rounds and deliverablesFees, ownership and revision scope unclear
PackingLabels, bags, inserts, carton counts and marksRetail preparation left to buyer
Testing and inspectionAgreed scope and responsible partyExternal charges absent from unit quote
Delivery and paymentCurrency, trade term, named place, stages and validityFreight, taxes or timing assumptions differ

Explain the fabric cost without false precision

Ask the factory to explain its consumption estimate in the unit used by the fabric supplier. Consumption depends on pattern area, usable width, size mix, cutting arrangement and allowances. Garment weight cannot simply replace purchased fabric consumption because offcuts and process losses do not remain in the finished tee.

For a hypothetical comparison, assume one offer uses 0.24 kg of purchased fabric per tee at USD 6.00/kg. The indicated fabric allocation is USD 1.44. An alternative using 0.26 kg at USD 5.70/kg gives USD 1.482, approximately USD 1.48. The cheaper kilogram price produces the higher allocation under these assumptions. These figures are teaching examples, not market benchmarks or Knitwear Base quotations.

Confirm whether the supplied consumption already includes waste or other allowances. Adding another percentage without understanding the basis can count the same allowance twice. Ask whether rib is included or priced separately, and whether custom-color minimums create a surplus-material purchase.

Compare the commercial commitment

Record minimums per style, color and any applicable size or component. An acceptable total quantity can still fail an individual color minimum. Ask whether labels, print setup or packaging have separate commitments and what happens to unused materials.

Separate one-time fees from recurring charges, but do not assume a reorder removes every setup cost. Artwork revisions, worn tooling, a new decoration supplier or changed construction can create new work. State what can be reused and whether the buyer receives the underlying files.

A named delivery term and place are necessary for a fair comparison. Request a separate landed-cost estimate from the logistics provider where needed. Clarify who arranges inspection, who releases shipment and which event starts the production schedule. A general lead-time statement is not a confirmed delivery plan.

Investigate the lowest offer before rejecting or accepting it

Ask the low bidder to list deviations from the specification. Check the actual sample, not just a fabric description. A legitimate stock-material advantage is useful if the material meets the brief and future availability is understood. An unapproved substitution should remain an alternative offer, not silently become the baseline.

Verify who performs knitting or sourcing, dyeing, sewing and decoration, and ask which activities may be subcontracted. Request evidence relevant to the actual order rather than treating a factory profile or certificate logo as proof of every capability.

Release a comparable award package

Select against the agreed product, total commitment and approval plan. Attach the accepted quotation, specification revision, quantity matrix and exception list to the order record. Resolve differences before depositing against an ambiguous price.

If the budget does not fit, request explicit options such as a different approved fabric, fewer colors or simpler packaging. Have each option state the product change and saving. This preserves the ability to make a deliberate buying decision rather than discovering a cheaper specification in bulk.

Related purchasing guidance

For the next purchasing checks, see apparel quotation structure and same-spec quote comparison.

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