There is no single best fabric for hoodies; the best one is the one that suits how the hoodie will be worn, decorated and washed. As a starting point: a cotton-rich fleece or French terry is the usual choice for everyday and streetwear hoodies because it feels soft and looks matte; poly-cotton suits print-heavy, workwear and value lines because it tends to shrink and wrinkle less; and polyester suits sport and sublimation printing. Then choose the knit and weight for the season, and confirm the choice with tests on the bulk fabric rather than on feel alone.
Choose the fibre content first
| Fibre content | Strengths | Watch for | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 100% cotton | Soft, breathable, matte look, prints and dyes well | Shrinkage and twist if not pre-treated, slower drying, colour fading on dark shades | Premium casual and streetwear |
| Cotton-rich blend (e.g. mostly cotton with some polyester) | Cotton feel with better shape retention and less shrinkage | Polyester content can increase pilling on brushed fleece | Everyday retail, merch, uniforms |
| Poly-cotton with more polyester | Lower shrinkage, faster drying, often lower cost | Less breathable; pilling and static; dye migration into prints on some fabrics | Value lines, workwear, print-heavy designs |
| 100% polyester (including recycled) | Quick drying, colour holds well, suits sublimation | Feels less natural; pilling, static and odour retention | Team and sport hoodies, all-over prints |
Small amounts of elastane are often used in the rib cuffs and hem so they recover after stretching; see rib cuffs and hems going baggy.
Then choose the knit: fleece, French terry or something else
- Brushed fleece: the loops on the back are brushed into a soft, warm pile. Warmest for its weight; can shed lint at first and pill.
- French terry (loopback): the loops are left unbrushed. Lighter-feeling, more breathable, good for layering and warmer climates.
- Heavyweight fleece or terry: chosen for a structured streetwear look; costs more and takes longer to dry.
- Jersey or interlock: for lightweight hoodies and layers rather than warmth.
For a side-by-side of the three most common choices for custom hoodies, see cotton fleece, French terry or poly-cotton, and for market fit, fleece or French terry for your market.
Weight: useful, but not the whole story
Fabric weight is usually given in grams per square metre (GSM) or ounces per square yard. Heavier generally means warmer and more structured, but two fabrics of the same weight can feel and wear very differently depending on yarn, knit and finish. Agree the weight with a tolerance, and measure it on bulk fabric as well as the sample. See hoodie weight and GSM, converting oz/yd² and GSM and GSM tolerance.
Match the fabric to decoration
- Screen print and DTG generally print most cleanly on a smooth, cotton-rich face.
- Sublimation needs a light-coloured, polyester-rich fabric.
- Embroidery on lightweight terry may need a stabiliser so the fabric does not pucker; on heavy fleece, check the backing does not feel scratchy (see scratchy embroidery backing).
Tests to put in your fabric spec
Name a test method and a pass limit for each property that matters to you, and ask for results on the bulk fabric or finished garment.
| Property | Common test methods | Why it matters for hoodies |
|---|---|---|
| Shrinkage after washing | ISO 6330 washing with ISO 5077 measurement, or AATCC TM135 | Body and sleeves getting shorter after tumble drying |
| Pilling | ISO 12945-2 (modified Martindale) or ASTM D3512 (random tumble) | Brushed fleece and blends can pill under the arms and on the cuffs |
| Colour fastness to rubbing | ISO 105-X12 | Dark colours rubbing off onto lighter clothing or bags |
| Flammability (U.S.) | 16 CFR Part 1610 | Required for clothing textiles sold in the U.S.; raised-surface fabrics such as fleece need attention (see fleece hoodies and 16 CFR 1610) |
For writing a shrinkage limit, see how to write a shrinkage limit into a knit fabric spec.
Be careful with fabric claims
- Fibre content on the label must match the actual fabric; in the U.S. this falls under the FTC’s Textile Act rules (16 CFR Part 303).
- A “recycled” claim must be supportable. The FTC Green Guides (16 CFR 260.13) say recycled content claims apply to material recovered or diverted from the waste stream, and a product only partly made of recycled material should clearly state the amount or percentage, by weight. Ask the mill for documentation before you print the claim (see recycled fleece and what to verify).
- Avoid broad claims such as “eco-friendly”; the Green Guides (16 CFR 260.4) say unqualified general environmental benefit claims are difficult to substantiate, so name the specific, provable benefit instead.
Hoodies at Knitwear Base
We make custom hoodies and can help you choose and source a fabric for your design and decoration; see our hoodie manufacturing page and custom fabric. Send your use, target weight and decoration method through our contact page.
FAQ
What fabric makes the warmest hoodie?
Brushed fleece is usually warmer than French terry of the same weight, because the brushed pile traps air. Heavier fabric is warmer again, but less breathable.
Does a higher GSM mean better quality?
Not by itself. It means a heavier fabric. Quality depends on yarn, knit, finish and how the fabric performs in shrinkage, pilling and colour fastness tests.
Sources and further reading
- ISO 6330:2021, Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
- ISO 5077:2007, Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
- AATCC TM135, Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
- ISO 12945-2:2020, Fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting: modified Martindale method
- ASTM D3512/D3512M, Pilling resistance of textile fabrics: random tumble pilling tester
- ISO 105-X12:2016, Colour fastness to rubbing
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 1610, Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 303, Rules under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
- eCFR, 16 CFR 260.13, FTC Green Guides: recycled content claims
- eCFR, 16 CFR 260.4, FTC Green Guides: general environmental benefit claims
Rules and standards are summarised from their official pages for general guidance; this is not legal advice. Check the current version and the requirements of your own market before you rely on them.
