Short answer: most wholesale hoodies use one of a few fabric families: brushed fleece (soft, napped inside), French terry (loops inside, not brushed), heavyweight versions of either, and different fibre blends (cotton, cotton-polyester, recycled polyester). For a wholesale programme, the family is only the start: you need a fabric record specific enough that the reorder matches the first order. This page is about writing that record.
For the consumer-level question of which fabric is best for a hoodie, see the best fabric for hoodies. For matching fleece or French terry to a market, see fleece or French terry by market.
The hoodie fabric families
| Family | Construction | Character | Typical risks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brushed fleece | Usually a 2- or 3-thread fleece knit with the inside brushed to raise a nap | Warm, soft inside | Pilling and lint in early washes; shrinkage |
| French terry (loopback) | Fleece knit left with loops inside, not brushed | Lighter, more breathable, drier hand | Loops snag; can look flat on cheap yarn |
| Heavyweight | Higher-weight fleece or terry, often cotton-rich | Structured, dense drape (streetwear) | Shrinkage control; cost; long drying |
| Cotton-polyester blend | Either construction in a blend (e.g. CVC or poly-rich) | Less shrinkage, cheaper, holds colour | Pilling; print method choice |
| Recycled polyester blend | Polyester share from recycled sources | Claims potential | Evidence for the recycled claim; pilling |
The construction descriptions are general; mills differ, and the same family name covers a range of yarns and weights. See French terry or brushed fleece and heavyweight hoodies.
What to write into the fabric record
| Item | What to record |
|---|---|
| Identity | Mill and article reference, approved swatch reference |
| Fibre content | Full composition by generic fibre name, including the rib |
| Construction | Fleece or terry, threads, face and back yarns, brushed or not |
| Weight | Target GSM with tolerance and method (e.g. ASTM D3776) |
| Width | Usable width, open or tubular |
| Shrinkage | Length and width limits after the agreed wash (e.g. AATCC TM135 or ISO 6330 with ISO 5077) |
| Pilling | Method and acceptance grade (e.g. ISO 12945-2 or ASTM D3512) |
| Colour | Approved lab dip or shade band; rib matched to body |
| Rib | Rib fabric reference and its shrinkage, matched to the body fabric |
The rib is the most common mismatch: if cuffs and hem shrink or relax differently from the body, the hoodie looks wrong after one wash. See matching ribbing to the body.
Weight and price
Weight (GSM) is the most quoted number and one of the least complete. Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel and wear very differently. Price is driven by fibre and yarn quality, weight, construction, brushing or other finishing, colour (and whether it is a stock or custom dye), and the mill’s minimums per colour. Ask for quotes on the same fabric record from each supplier. See hoodie GSM and hoodie MOQ.
Fabric and decoration
The fabric decides which print methods work. Brushed fleece and French terry take screen print and embroidery well; DTG works best on cotton-rich surfaces; poly-rich fabrics need care with heat and dye migration. See hoodie printing methods.
Validate before bulk
- Wash the PP sample to the care label and measure body, sleeve, rib and hood.
- Check pilling and lint after early washes; see hoodie pilling and lint.
- Compare bulk fabric to the approved swatch for weight, shade and hand before cutting.
- For U.S. sale, check flammability under 16 CFR Part 1610, which has specific procedures for raised-surface fabrics such as brushed fleece; see fleece hoodies and 16 CFR 1610.
Fact, advice and uncertainty
Fact: fleece is brushed, French terry keeps its loops, and GSM alone does not define either. Advice: write a full fabric record, including the rib, and quote every supplier against it. Uncertainty: hand-feel preferences vary by market; confirm with sell-through rather than assumption.
Knitwear Base makes hoodies in fleece and French terry. See the hoodie products and the hoodie factory page, or send your fabric record through the contact page.
Sources and further reading
- ASTM D3776/D3776M, Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric
- AATCC TM135, Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
- ISO 6330:2021, Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
- ISO 5077:2007, Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
- ISO 12945-2:2020, Fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting: modified Martindale method
- ASTM D3512/D3512M, Pilling resistance of textile fabrics: random tumble pilling tester
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 1610, Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 303, Rules under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Rules and standards are summarised from their official pages for general guidance; this is not legal advice. Check the current version and the requirements of your own market before you rely on them.
