A compression reorder should reproduce an approved product, not merely repeat its fiber composition and color name. A new fabric lot or proposed substitute can change extension, recovery, appearance and interaction with the pattern. Use a change record to decide what needs rechecking before cutting.
Define the reference package for the reorder
Keep the approved pattern revision, measurement chart, bill of materials, fabric reference and construction details together. Include identified unwashed and washed samples, test reports and the exact sales claims approved for that version. The purchase order should point to this package rather than saying “same as last time.”
Ask the supplier to declare whether the mill, yarn, knit construction, finish, dye route, usable width, weight, seam materials or decoration system has changed. A declaration is a starting point for verification, not proof that every delivered roll matches the reference.
Compare new lots before allocating them to cutting
Obtain labelled samples from the intended production lot and compare them with the approved material under consistent conditions. Check identity, shade, physical specification and the directional behavior relevant to the garment. Keep roll and lot references connected to test specimens.
Use the agreed incoming plan to determine sampling across lots or rolls. Do not create a universal rule that one swatch represents every roll. Where variation appears, investigate its extent and keep affected material separated until the technical decision is made.
Treat substitutions according to their functional impact
A new mill or changed construction should trigger a documented material assessment even if the nominal composition and weight match. A different finish can affect hand, extension or logo adhesion. A change in usable width may change marker layout and tempt a panel rotation that was never approved.
Define which checks must repeat: directional material tests, seam or decoration trials, after-care comparison, fit or finished-garment pressure measurement where claimed. The goal is a justified retest plan, not automatically repeating every test or waiving them all because the product is a reorder.
Keep the affected stock traceable
Link fabric lots to cut bundles, sewing batches and cartons. If multiple lots are used, record the allocation and prevent uncontrolled mixing that could create shade or behavior differences within one garment. Use the same identifiers on inspection and test records.
Do not authorize cutting a proposed substitute while approval is still described as pending. If timing forces a commercial decision, document the exact risk, affected quantity and authorized action. A schedule problem does not transform an untested material into an approved equivalent.
Lot and substitution approval form
Complete the form for every material change requiring review. For an unchanged reorder, record the declared continuity and the verification performed rather than leaving the form empty.
| Change-control field | Record | Approval requirement |
|---|---|---|
| Original reference | Approved mill/material, lot, pattern and reports | A clear baseline exists |
| New supply | Mill, reference, lot and proposed quantity | Material can be traced through the order |
| Declared difference | Yarn, structure, finish, shade, width or other change | Technical impact has been assessed |
| Comparison evidence | Physical, directional and care results | Results meet the applicable specification |
| Garment rechecks | Fit, seams, logo and pressure if relevant | Affected functional evidence remains valid |
| Allocation plan | Rolls, bundles, production batches and cartons | Changed stock remains identifiable |
| Commercial effect | Cost, timing, unused material and responsibility | Terms agreed without hiding technical gaps |
| Final authorization | Approved, restricted or rejected; signer and date | No release based on silence |
Close the change and update the reorder standard
If the substitute is approved, state whether approval applies only to the current lot or establishes a new permanent material reference. Update the bill of materials and retained samples accordingly. Do not leave the next buyer guessing which of two fabrics is now standard.
Review claims if the change affects evidence supporting them. A pressure report on the original garment does not automatically cover the revised material, and sports apparel cannot acquire a medical claim through a supplier substitution. File the final decision with the lot records so that future complaints and reorders can be traced to the product actually shipped.
Related purchasing guidance
Continue with Our factory wants to switch to a different fabric mill mid-order. What should we require?, or The factory wants to run our repeat order without a new pre-production sample. Is that safe?.
