Our factory wants to switch to a different fabric mill mid-order. What should we require?
A mill change is a material change, even if the fabric "matches". Treat it as a new approval: same specification, new samples, repeat the tests that matter.
Halfway through a T-shirt order, our factory says its usual fabric mill is behind and proposes another mill with "the same fabric". They want approval this week. What should we ask for before saying yes?
Main answer
Treat it as a new fabric approval, even if the description is the same. Two mills can produce fabric with the same name and nominal weight that behaves differently in shrinkage, twist, colour or handfeel. The quickest safe answer is a conditional approval. The new mill's fabric must meet your existing fabric specification, demonstrated on its bulk, before cutting.
Ask for the new fabric against your spec
Send the factory your fabric specification and ask for the new mill's fabric data against each line: fibre content, construction, finished weight with its method and tolerance (ASTM D3776, for example), and width. Ask for physical swatches from the bulk lot, not development samples, and compare them with your sealed approved fabric.
Repeat the tests that caused trouble before
You do not need to repeat every test, but repeat those that matter for the product and for your past complaints. For knit tees that usually means dimensional change after a named laundering procedure such as ISO 6330, skew change after laundering (AATCC TM179), and colour, including wash colourfastness such as ISO 105-C06 for the shades involved. Agree in advance which results would block approval.
Keep the change visible
Ask the factory to label which cut batches use which mill's fabric and to keep them traceable through to cartons. If something goes wrong later, you will know which goods are affected. Mixing two mills' fabric within one size or colour can cause visible shade differences on the shelf. Ask that each colour and size run stays on one mill's fabric where possible.
Decide on timing honestly
If the tests cannot be done before the factory needs to cut, you face a real choice: accept a delay, or accept the risk with clear terms. Put the decision and its conditions in writing. Include who pays if the new fabric fails your specification after cutting.
The principle is the same as any approval: the specification stays fixed, and the new material has to prove it meets it.
Finally, decide what happens at reorder. If the new mill's fabric passes and performs well in sales, you may keep it. If not, the reorder should go back to the original mill. Either way, record the approved mill against the fabric reference so the choice is not left to whoever books the next order.
Sources and further reading
- ASTM D3776/D3776M — Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric
- AATCC TM179 — Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering
- ISO 6330:2021 — Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
- ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd ask for the new mill's name and the fabric test report before anything else. Then I'd put the cost of any failed fabric on the factory in writing, since the change was its proposal. Most factories accept that if the request is clear.
Merchandising perspective
Shade matching across the two mills is my main concern. I'd want the same colour from both mills compared under the same light before approval, and I would keep each colour on one mill's fabric if we can.
QC perspective
We'd test the new bulk lot for shrinkage, twist and colour before cutting, and tag the cut batches by mill. At final inspection we'd sample both mills' goods separately, so a problem with one doesn't hide in the average.
Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.
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