Short answer: start with what you can hand over. If you have a finished tech pack, you need a production (OEM) maker; if you have a sketch or a reference garment, you need a maker with a pattern and sample room that charges for development; if you only have an idea, choose from a maker’s existing styles (ODM) or get a technical designer first. Then send one clear brief to a short list, judge the makers by the questions they ask, and let a paid sample made to your spec decide.
This page is for brands ordering production, not for one-off tailoring. For checking a factory’s identity and capacity, see how to find custom clothing manufacturers in China; for where to look, see where to find apparel manufacturers.
Match the maker to what you can hand over
| What you have | Kind of maker you need | What to ask them |
|---|---|---|
| Finished tech pack, measurements, chosen fabric | OEM production maker (full package or CMT) | Can you sample exactly to this spec, and which steps do you subcontract? |
| Sketch plus a reference garment | Maker with in-house pattern-making and sampling | What does development cost, how many rounds are included, and who owns the pattern? |
| Idea or mood board only | ODM maker with existing styles, or a technical designer first | Which base styles can be changed, and what can be changed? |
The difference between OEM and ODM is explained in OEM vs ODM clothing manufacturing. If you need help turning an idea into a specification, see apparel design.
What to put in your first brief
- Product type, fabric type and target weight, with photos or a reference sample.
- Quantity per style, per colour and size spread for the first order, and a realistic reorder estimate.
- Target market, because it decides label content (in the U.S., fibre content under 16 CFR Part 303 and care instructions under Part 423).
- What you will supply (labels, packaging, fabric) and what the maker must source.
- Target timing and the price basis you want quoted.
- A request for sample cost and timing, and who will own the patterns.
Do not send final artwork or your full range before you have protected your brand name; a U.S. trademark does not cover China. See partnering with a clothing factory in China.
How to read the replies
| Usually a good sign | Usually a warning sign |
|---|---|
| Asks about measurements, fabric or trims you left unclear | Sends a price within minutes without asking anything |
| Quotes sample and bulk prices separately | Price far below others with no explanation |
| States MOQ per style and per colour | Will not name the legal entity or the sewing address |
| Says which steps are outsourced (printing, embroidery, washing) | Certificates you cannot check with the issuer |
| Explains what the sample fee covers | Asks for full payment before any sample |
Let the paid sample decide
- Order a paid sample of one style from your two or three best replies. See what a sampling fee should cover.
- Measure each sample against your spec and note every deviation.
- Compare how each maker handled questions and changes during sampling.
- Record the approved sample. See what a sealed sample record should include.
Fact, recommendation, uncertainty
Fact: trademark rights are territorial, and U.S. importers must be able to document their supply chain, including under the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act. Recommendation: keep the first order small enough that a bad result is a lesson, not a loss. Uncertainty: one good sample does not prove bulk quality; the pre-production sample and inspection still matter.
Where Knitwear Base fits
Knitwear Base is a knitwear maker in China that works from brand specifications. If you are shortlisting, send us the same brief as everyone else through the contact page.
Sources and further reading
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 303, Rules under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 423, Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel
- USPTO, Trademark basics
- U.S. International Trade Administration, China Country Commercial Guide: Protecting Intellectual Property
- U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act
- ISO 2859-1:2026, Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes (AQL)
Rules and standards are summarised from their official pages for general guidance; this is not legal advice. Check the current version and the requirements of your own market before you rely on them.
