Rib is a knit structure with columns of face stitches and back stitches side by side, which makes the fabric stretch widely and pull back. Names like 1×1 and 2×2 describe the pattern: one face column then one back column, or two and two. Rib is used for neckbands, cuffs, waistbands and hems because those areas have to stretch over the body and then hold the garment close.

1×1 and 2×2

Rib structure affects how the fabric looks and behaves. 1×1 rib is finer and flatter and is common on tee neckbands. 2×2 rib has wider columns, looks more textured and usually stretches and recovers differently, and is often used on hoodie cuffs and hems. Which is better depends on the style and the fabric weight, so compare real samples with the body fabric.

Elastane in rib

Rib with a small share of elastane usually recovers better and keeps the cuff close after many wears and washes. Rib without elastane relies on yarn and structure alone and can loosen over time. Elastane adds cost and needs care in dyeing and finishing, so check that the supplier has experience with it.

Weight and match with the body

The rib weight should suit the body fabric. A very light rib on heavy fleece can look weak and stretch out, and a heavy rib on a light tee can pull the garment out of shape. Ask the mill for the weight with ASTM D3776, and test rib and body together after washing, so shrinkage differences show.

Test stretch and recovery

ASTM D2594 describes stretch properties of knitted fabrics with low stretch power, and ASTM D4964 covers elastic fabrics. Ask your lab which suits your rib, and test before and after washing with a procedure such as ISO 6330. Measure cuff or neck opening on finished garments before and after washing and after repeated stretching.

What to specify

Write the rib structure, yarn, elastane percentage, weight, finished width and the stretch and recovery limits. Approve a washed sample and compare bulk rib against it. Ask the mill to say whether the rib is knitted as a tube or as flat panels that are cut and joined, because that changes both the cost and where seams fall on a cuff. Re-test whenever the yarn supplier, elastane type or dye house changes, since small changes in recovery show up quickly on cuffs and neckbands.