An apparel manufacturer is a business that turns a garment design and materials into finished clothing in bulk: it makes patterns and samples, cuts the fabric, sews and finishes the garments, checks them and packs them for shipment. Most work to orders from brands and retailers rather than selling their own label. How a manufacturer works for you depends mainly on its business model, the sequence of approvals it follows, and how it builds the price.
The three common business models
| Model | What the factory does | What the brand does | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| CMT (cut, make, trim) | Cuts, sews, finishes and packs | Supplies the fabric and usually the trims; often supplies patterns | Brands with their own fabric sourcing and technical team |
| Full package (often quoted “FOB”) | Sources fabric and trims, makes samples and produces the garment, delivered to an agreed point | Supplies the design or tech pack and approves each stage | Most small and mid-sized brands |
| Full package with design or development services (often called ODM) | Also develops styles from a brief or offers its own base styles | Chooses or briefs styles, approves, adds branding | Brands without in-house design, and private label ranges |
“FOB” is strictly an Incoterms® rule for who pays and carries risk up to loading on the ship, but in apparel it is also used loosely to mean a full-package price. Confirm which meaning a quote uses (see FOB or DDP quotes). Many factories also subcontract steps such as dyeing, printing, embroidery or washing; ask which steps happen in-house (see factory, trader, agent or hybrid).
Who does what inside a factory
- Merchandiser or account manager: your contact; handles quotes, the schedule and approvals.
- Pattern and sample room: makes patterns, grades sizes and sews samples.
- Sourcing: buys fabric, trims, labels and packaging, and follows up colour approvals.
- Cutting: spreads and cuts fabric by marker; for knits, relaxing the fabric first matters.
- Sewing lines: groups of operators each doing part of the garment.
- Finishing and packing: trimming threads, pressing, folding, labels, bagging and cartons.
- Quality control: checks materials, the line during production and finished goods.
For how cut-and-sew production works step by step, see what cut and sew is.
How an order moves from enquiry to shipment
- Enquiry and quote: based on your tech pack or sample, quantities and destination.
- Development sample: first check of shape, fabric and construction.
- Fit sample: measured and tried on; corrections go back to the pattern.
- Colour and material approvals: lab dips, print strike-offs, trims and labels (see lab dip approval).
- Pre-production (PP) sample: made with the bulk fabric and trims; your final approval before cutting.
- Bulk production: fabric arrives and is checked, then cutting, sewing, finishing and in-line checks.
- Final inspection: often by AQL sampling under ISO 2859-1 (see pre-production, in-line and final inspection).
- Packing and shipment: under the agreed shipping term and documents.
Each approval is a point where the schedule can slip if feedback is late. Most delays come from material lead times and repeated sample rounds rather than from sewing itself (see where the weeks go).
How a garment price is built
- Fabric: usually the largest part; the amount used per garment, the price per kilo or metre, and cutting waste.
- Trims and labels: thread, elastic, zips, drawcords, labels, tags, polybags and cartons.
- Making (CM): sewing and finishing labour, which depends on how many operations the style has.
- Processing: dyeing, washing, printing or embroidery, often per piece plus setup.
- Overheads and margin, plus any testing, inspection and inland transport to the agreed delivery point.
Small orders cost more per piece because setup and material minimums are shared across fewer garments. For a worked breakdown, see anatomy of a quoted price.
What stays with the brand
The manufacturer makes the garment, but the brand that sells it is usually responsible for what the label says and for the product meeting the rules of its market. In the U.S. that includes fibre content, country of origin and business identity on the label (16 CFR Part 303) and care instructions (16 CFR Part 423). Put your requirements in the order, and check samples against them.
How Knitwear Base works
We are a knitwear manufacturer working on a full-package basis for T-shirts, hoodies, underwear, loungewear and activewear. We can develop a style from your sketch or sample, source fabric, make samples including a PP sample, and produce, check and pack your order. Read about our design and development process and quality control, or send your brief through our contact page.
FAQ
What is the difference between a manufacturer and a supplier?
A manufacturer makes the goods in its own facility. A supplier may be a manufacturer, a trading company or an agent who places orders with factories. Each can work well, but you should know which one you are dealing with (see types of clothing producer).
Sources and further reading
- ICC, Incoterms® 2020 rules
- ISO 2859-1, Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes (AQL)
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 303, Rules under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 423, Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel
Rules and standards are summarised from their official pages for general guidance; this is not legal advice. Check the current version and the requirements of your own market before you rely on them.
