Our black hoodies fade to grey after a few washes. Is it the dye or the wash?

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Flat illustration of a care label with laundry symbols, a water drop and a thermometer

Our black hoodies fade to grey after a few washes. Is it the dye or the wash?

Fading on black fleece is usually a mix of colour loss in washing and abrasion of the surface fibres. Test colour change after washing and look at the surface.

Wash, Care & DurabilityKnitwear Talk3 min readKnitwear Base Editorial Team
Flat illustration of a hoodie and a knit fabric swatch
Buyer question

Customers say our black cotton-rich hoodies look grey and patchy after five or six washes, especially at the cuffs and the front. The factory says all black cotton fades. What should we check?

Main answer
Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Main answer

Black cotton fleece can lose colour in two ways. Dye can wash out, leaving the whole garment lighter. The surface can also abrade, so tiny broken fibres scatter light and make the fabric look grey even if the dye is still there. Abrasion shows most at cuffs, hems and the front, where friction is highest. The two causes need different fixes, so it is worth separating them before blaming the factory or the customer.

Start by comparing a faded garment with an unwashed one from the same lot in good daylight, inside and out. If the inside is as faded as the outside, dye loss in washing is the more likely cause. If only the outer face and high-friction areas look grey, abrasion is doing most of the damage.

Test colour fastness to washing

ISO 105-C06 tests colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering. It reports colour change of the specimen and staining of adjacent fabrics, each rated on a grey scale. Specify a minimum rating and the test condition that matches your care label, and ask the mill for reports on the bulk dye lot, not a lab dip. If the rating is low, the dyeing or after-treatment needs to improve.

Look at the surface

Wash garments several times with a named procedure such as ISO 6330, then compare the faded areas under a magnifier with unwashed fabric. Fuzzy, broken fibres point to abrasion. In that case, a more abrasion-resistant yarn, a tighter face construction, a finish that removes protruding fibres, or a gentler care instruction may help more than a stronger dye.

Care instructions

Turning garments inside out, washing in cooler water and avoiding hot tumble drying all slow both kinds of fading. Under the FTC Care Labeling Rule, 16 CFR Part 423, the label must give instructions for regular care and warn about procedures that would harm the product. If the hoodie only keeps its colour under gentler care, the label should say so.

Specify and check

Put the colour fastness rating, the method and the wash conditions in the fabric approval. Keep a washed reference garment from approval and compare washed bulk garments against it.

If complaints come only from one colour lot, ask the factory for that lot's dye and after-treatment records. A process shortcut on one lot is easier to fix than a fabric or dye choice that affects every order.

Sources and further reading

Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.

Three perspectives on this question

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Purchasing perspective

I'd ask the mill which dye class and after-treatment are quoted for black, since cheaper routes often show up as faster fading after a few washes.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Merchandising perspective

Black is often the biggest-selling colour. I'd photograph washed black samples next to new ones so the team decides with the washed look in front of them.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
QC perspective

We'd ask for an ISO 105-C06 report on each bulk black lot before cutting, and hold any lot that rates below the approved standard.

Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.

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