Different sizes of the same colour look slightly different. How do we control shade in bulk?

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Flat illustration of a fan of colour chips and a knit fabric swatch

Different sizes of the same colour look slightly different. How do we control shade in bulk?

Different dye lots of the same colour vary slightly. Control comes from shade grouping before cutting, keeping garments in one shade group, and a light box check against standard.

Defects & QC DiagnosisKnitwear Talk3 min readKnitwear Base Editorial Team
Flat illustration of a fan of colour chips and a knit fabric swatch
Buyer question

Our black and navy hoodies arrived with some sizes looking slightly different shades. Customers who bought two sizes for a team noticed. The factory says it was all one colour. What went wrong?

Main answer
Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Main answer

Fabric for a large order is usually dyed in several lots. Each lot is matched to the approved colour standard within a tolerance, but lots still differ slightly from each other. If different lots are cut for different sizes, or mixed within cartons, those small differences become visible when garments sit side by side. The factory is right that it is one colour; the problem is how the lots were managed.

Shade grouping before cutting

Ask the factory to sort fabric rolls into shade groups before cutting, often called shade banding or shade lotting. Each group contains rolls that match each other closely. Cut garments from one group where possible, and never mix groups within one garment, since panels from different lots on the same hoodie are the most visible fault.

Keep sizes in the same group

For styles where customers often buy several sizes together, such as team or uniform orders, cut all sizes of a colour from the same shade group. If that is not possible, keep each group's garments together in packing, and mark the group on the carton.

Check against the standard

Compare a bulk garment from each shade group with the approved colour standard in a light box under agreed light sources. Agree how close is acceptable with the dye house and the factory. Also check that shade stays stable after washing, by washing samples with a named procedure such as ISO 6330 and assessing colour change as in ISO 105-C06.

Inspection

In final inspection under ISO 2859-1, include shade variation within a garment and between garments in the same carton as defects. Ask the inspector to pull pieces from different sizes and compare them together.

For reorders

Reorders are always new dye lots, so they may differ from the first order. If continuity matters, agree a tighter tolerance and approve a lab dip against the original standard before dyeing.

Keep the approved standard and a sample from each shipped shade group, labelled, for future comparisons.

Dark colours such as black and navy, and bright colours, usually show lot differences most clearly. Focus the tightest controls on those shades rather than applying the same effort to every colour in the range.

Sources and further reading

Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.

Three perspectives on this question

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Purchasing perspective

I'd write shade grouping before cutting and one group per size run into the purchase order for core dark colours.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Merchandising perspective

Team orders mix sizes, so shade matters more for those programs. I'd flag them to the factory at order stage.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
QC perspective

We'd compare garments from several sizes side by side in a light box during inspection and check carton shade marking.

Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.

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