Embroidery on knit fabric needs a stabiliser, called backing, placed behind the fabric while stitching. It keeps the knit from stretching and puckering under the needle. After stitching, the backing remains on the inside, together with bobbin thread and knots. On a heavy fleece this is usually hidden by the brushed surface, but on lighter fleece or French terry it can be felt, and stiff or rough-cut backing is the most common cause of complaints.

Backing type

Cutaway backing stays permanently and supports embroidery well on knits, but heavier grades can feel stiff. Lighter or softer grades are available. Tearaway backing is easier to remove but gives less support on stretch knits and can leave rough fragments. Ask the embroiderer what backing is used and for samples with softer options on your fabric.

Trimming

Trim the backing close to the design with rounded corners. Square, sharp corners on the backing are a common source of irritation. Remove loose threads and jump stitches inside.

Cover the inside

A soft fusible or sew-in cover layer applied over the back of the embroidery can make it comfortable against the skin. For premium hoodies, some brands embroider before the lining or hood layer is attached so the back of the embroidery is hidden.

Design and density

Very dense designs need more support and leave more thread on the back. Discuss with the digitiser whether density can be reduced without losing the look, or whether a smaller logo or a different technique would work better.

Test after washing

Wash samples with a named procedure such as ISO 6330 at your label conditions. Some backings soften with washing; others stiffen or wrinkle. Also check colour fastness of embroidery thread with ISO 105-C06 if thread colours could bleed onto light fleece.

Write it down

Put backing type and weight, trimming, covering and the approved washed sample in the embroidery spec.

Feel the inside of the logo area on bulk pieces as part of routine checks, since backing can be swapped without anyone noticing. Keep a washed reference piece with the approved backing so later lots can be compared by hand feel as well as appearance.