An inspection report is a record of what was checked, how many pieces were sampled and what was found. The pass or fail line is a conclusion from that record. Read the body of the report before relying on the conclusion, and compare it with the standard you set in your purchase order or quality agreement.

Scope and sample

Check what was inspected: quantity finished and packed, styles and colours, and the date. Look at the sampling plan. An attribute plan such as ISO 2859-1 sets a sample size from the lot size and inspection level, and an acceptance and rejection number for each defect class. Check that the sample size and levels match what you agreed and that the sample was drawn from across the lot and from all cartons, not from the top.

Defects by class

Defects are normally grouped as critical, major and minor, according to definitions that you and the inspector have agreed. Check the count in each class against the limit and read the photos of the worst defects. A pass with several defects close to the limit is a warning, not a clean result. Ask what was done about defects that were found, such as whether pieces were removed or reworked.

Measurements and weights

Look at the measurement table: points measured, tolerance, and the number of pieces outside tolerance. A report can pass on appearance and still show a pattern of measurements out of tolerance in one size. If the report includes fabric weight, compare with the specification, which may be measured with ASTM D3776. Ask whether measurements were taken before or after washing, as the report should say.

Packing and labels

Check the carton counts, assortment, labels, polybag warnings, barcodes and shipping marks. Errors in packing and labelling can cause more trouble at the warehouse than a small sewing flaw.

Questions to ask

Ask for the full photo set, the original defect list and the inspector’s notes on anything unusual. If something does not match your agreement, ask the inspector to explain before you release the shipment. Keep the reports by factory so that you can see trends.