Our dark navy tees rub colour onto light bags and sofas. Which test should we ask for?
Colour that transfers by contact is measured by a rubbing test, not a wash test. Ask for dry and wet results on the bulk fabric and agree the minimum grade before production.
Customers say our dark navy cotton tees leave a blue tint on light-coloured tote bags and a cream sofa, especially when the shirt is damp from sweat. The factory sent a wash colourfastness report that looks fine. What test actually covers this?
Main answer
The report you received probably answers a different question. A wash colourfastness test such as ISO 105-C06 looks at colour change and staining during laundering. What your customers describe is colour rubbing off by contact, and that is measured by a rubbing test. ISO 105-X12 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles to rubbing off and staining other materials. It applies to dyed and printed textiles of all fibres.
Dry and wet rubbing are separate results
ISO 105-X12 provides for two tests, one with a dry rubbing cloth and one with a wet rubbing cloth. Your customers mention it gets worse when the shirt is damp from sweat, so the wet result matters as much as the dry one. Ask the factory or the mill for both results on the bulk fabric. Ask for the actual colour and lot you are shipping, because deep shades can behave differently from lighter colours of the same fabric.
Agree a minimum grade in advance
Rubbing results are reported as a staining grade on the rubbing cloth. The standard gives the method; it does not set a pass level for your product. Agree minimum dry and wet grades with your laboratory and write them into the fabric specification for dark colours. Then a lot that falls short is caught at the fabric stage, not in customer complaints.
What a supplier can change
If the bulk fabric does not meet your agreed grades, ask the mill what dyeing and after-treatment were used and whether its process can be improved for that shade. Do not assume an extra wash at the factory will fix it. If any treatment is applied, retest the treated fabric with the same method. Results are only comparable when the method, the specimen and the shade are the same.
Check the care label and the customer message
Some deep shades are sold with advice to wash separately before first wear. That advice is reasonable only if it matches what your tests show, and it does not replace a fabric that meets your rubbing requirement. Keep the care advice consistent with the wash procedure you tested under, for example ISO 6330.
In short, request ISO 105-X12 dry and wet results for each dark shade, set your minimum grades, and test bulk before cutting.
Sources and further reading
- ISO 105-X12:2016 — Colour fastness to rubbing
- ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
- ISO 6330:2021 — Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd add rubbing grades to the fabric purchase contract for dark shades. If the mill can't meet them, I want to know at lab-dip stage, when changing the dye route is still possible, rather than after 5,000 tees are sewn.
Merchandising perspective
Navy and black are often our best sellers, so they deserve their own fabric spec. I'd also check the product photos and copy. If a 'wash before wear' note is needed, it should be on the hangtag as well as the care label.
QC perspective
We'd cut specimens from the bulk roll of each dark colour and send them for dry and wet rubbing before cutting. If a shipment is already made, we test retained garments to see whether the complaint is lot-specific.
Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.
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