Seamless knit or cut-and-sew underwear for our first collection? How do we choose?
Seamless garments are knitted to shape on special machines; cut-and-sew garments are cut from fabric and sewn. They differ in minimums, sizing flexibility and development time.

We are planning a first underwear collection of briefs and bralettes. One factory offers seamless knit, another cut-and-sew in modal-spandex. Seamless looks smoother, but we are unsure about minimums and sizing. What should we weigh?
Main answer
Seamless underwear is knitted as a tube on a circular seamless machine, with zones of different knit structure for support, ventilation or shaping built into the knitting. The garment needs only a few seams to finish. Cut-and-sew underwear is cut from rolls of fabric and sewn together with elastic and seams. Both can be high quality; they suit different products, budgets and stages of a brand.
Look and feel
Seamless garments lie smooth under clothes with few lines, and the knitted zones can add light shaping. Cut-and-sew garments offer a wider choice of fabrics, such as modal, cotton, micro-modal or printed fabrics, and edge finishes like lace, bonded or elastic bands.
Sizing and fit range
Seamless garments rely heavily on stretch, so one knitted size often covers a range of body sizes. That can make the size range smaller but fit less precise. Cut-and-sew is graded size by size and can offer a wider, more precise size range. If your brand promises extended or precise sizing, cut-and-sew is usually easier.
Minimums and development
Seamless production needs a knitting program for each style and size, and minimums per colour can be higher. Changes after programming take time. Cut-and-sew development is more familiar to most factories, and fabric minimums are the main constraint. Ask both factories for minimums per style and colour, sample lead times and costs.
Testing both
For either route, test stretch and recovery with a method suited to the material, such as ASTM D4964 for elastic fabrics or ASTM D2594 for knits with low power, on new and washed garments. Wash with a named procedure such as ISO 6330 and check dimensional change, since seamless garments can change shape if the yarn or knit tension varies.
A practical approach
Many brands launch with cut-and-sew core styles in a proven fabric and add seamless styles once they know which sizes and colours sell. Whichever you choose, approve washed samples worn by testers across the size range before bulk.
Keep the approved samples of each route as references so later reorders can be compared for stretch, size and feel. Note the yarn and machine gauge for seamless styles, since a change in either alters the fit.
Sources and further reading
- ASTM D4964 — Tension and Elongation of Elastic Fabrics (CRE)
- ASTM D2594 — Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power
- ISO 6330:2021 — Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd ask both factories for minimums per colour and size, and compare them with our forecast before choosing.
Merchandising perspective
A first collection needs core styles that work for many bodies. I'd start with cut-and-sew basics and test seamless as a capsule.
QC perspective
We'd measure relaxed and stretched dimensions on each size, new and washed, since stretch-based sizing is easy to drift in bulk.
Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.
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