Should our hoodie and tee logos be embroidered or screen printed, and how do cost, durability and minimums compare?

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Should our hoodie and tee logos be embroidered or screen printed, and how do cost, durability and minimums compare?

Embroidery is priced by stitches and screen print by colours and screens. Choose by logo, fabric and volume, then test washing and rubbing on the actual garment.

Printing, Trims & DecorationKnitwear Talk3 min readKnitwear Base Editorial Team
Flat illustration of a button, a zipper and a thread spool
Buyer question

We need a small chest logo on tees and hoodies. The factory quotes both embroidery and screen print and mentions different minimums. How do we decide?

Main answer
Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Main answer

Embroidery and screen print give a logo very different looks and behaviours. The better choice depends on the logo, the fabric, the order size and how the garment will be washed. Ask the factory how each method is priced, so you compare like with like.

What drives the cost

Embroidery is generally priced by the number of stitches, the size of the design and the number of colours of thread, and it needs a digitised file, which is a one-time setup. Screen print is priced by the number of colours, because each colour needs its own screen, plus set-up and the print itself. Ask for both prices at the quantities you plan, including any setup or digitising fee.

Hand feel and fabric

Embroidery is raised and a little stiff and has backing inside, which can scratch or pucker thin jersey. Screen print sits on the surface, can be soft or plasticky depending on ink and is usually better on thin or stretchy fabric. Heavy, stable fabrics like fleece suit embroidery more easily.

Durability

Both can last well when done correctly. Embroidery thread can snag or fuzz and backing can irritate. Print can crack, fade or peel if ink and curing are wrong. Compare washed samples with a named procedure such as ISO 6330 or ISO 105-C06 for colour change, and test rubbing with ISO 105-X12. Check the logo after several washes, not only after one.

Size and placement

Small chest logos suit both methods. A large back design is heavy in embroidery and can pull or pucker the fabric, while a large screen print uses more ink and can feel stiff. Write the logo size and position, with a tolerance, into the tech pack, and ask for a thread or ink colour reference so that repeat orders match. Also check whether dark garment dye can transfer to light thread in the wash.

Minimums

Minimums vary by factory and by decoration vendor, so ask per style, per colour and per decoration. Screen print can need a minimum per colour because of screen setup, while embroidery may be offered at lower runs but with a digitising fee. Put the figures in writing.

What to approve

Approve a washed sample with the logo, record size and position with tolerance in the tech pack, and re-check the first bulk lot against it.

Sources and further reading

Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.

Three perspectives on this question

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Purchasing perspective

I'd ask for both quotes at our real quantities, with setup fees listed separately, so we compare total cost and not only unit price.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Merchandising perspective

The logo is the brand's signature, so I'd check how it looks and feels on the actual fabric before we choose.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
QC perspective

We'd wash and rub-test sample garments in each method and compare logo condition, thread or ink changes and backing comfort.

Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.

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