Chest logos on our tees are off-centre or crooked in bulk. What placement tolerance should we set?

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Flat illustration of an embroidery hoop, a thread spool and a needle and thread

Chest logos on our tees are off-centre or crooked in bulk. What placement tolerance should we set?

Specify position from fixed points, mark it with a template, set a tolerance in millimetres or centimetres and check it on inspected pieces. Vague placement leads to crooked logos.

Printing, Trims & DecorationKnitwear Talk3 min readKnitwear Base Editorial Team
Flat illustration of an embroidery hoop, a thread spool and a needle and thread
Buyer question

Several cartons of our tees have a chest logo that is clearly lower on one side or off-centre. The sample was fine. The factory says the position is within normal variation. What should the spec say?

Main answer
Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Main answer

A print or embroidery that is off-centre or tilted looks like a defect, even though every pattern piece and sewing seam is within tolerance. The usual cause is that the placement was never defined with enough precision, or the garment was loaded unevenly in the print frame or hoop. The fix is a clear specification, a physical guide in production and a check at inspection.

Define the placement

Give the position in measurements from fixed points on the garment: for example the distance down from the neck seam at the shoulder or from the centre back neck, and the distance in from the centre front line. Mark whether the logo’s top edge, centre or baseline is the reference. A sketch with measurements for each size group avoids misunderstanding.

Guides in production

Ask the decorator how garments are aligned: print boards with registration marks, laser guides, templates or hooping aids for embroidery. Garments loaded by eye vary from piece to piece. For knit fabric, check that the garment is not stretched when loaded, since a stretched garment relaxes after printing and the logo shifts or distorts.

Set a tolerance

Choose a tolerance for both horizontal and vertical position and for tilt, based on what the decorator can hold and what is visible. Write it in the spec and show what is acceptable and what is not with photos. A tolerance that is too tight to hold will cause constant disputes, and one that is too loose will show.

Check and classify

At inline and final inspection, measure placement on sampled pieces and compare it with the approved sample. In the defect list, say whether an off-centre logo beyond tolerance is a major defect. The sampling plan from ISO 2859-1 then decides acceptance, but the classification and tolerance are your decision.

After washing

Check that placement does not change after washing, for example when fabric shrinks unevenly. Wash a few pieces with a procedure such as ISO 6330 and measure again. Keep photographs of acceptable and unacceptable placements, one set per size group, so the factory, the inspector and your team all judge the same way. When the artwork or size chart changes, update the placement sketch and the photos at the same time, or the old reference will be used by mistake.

Sources and further reading

Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.

Three perspectives on this question

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Purchasing perspective

I'd put the placement sketch with measurements, the reference point and the tolerance into the order and ask for the decorator's alignment method.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Merchandising perspective

A crooked logo is the first thing a customer sees, so I'd treat it as a major defect and say so in the defect list.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
QC perspective

We'd measure distance from the neck seam and centre front on sampled pieces and compare with the approved photo.

Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.

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