Subcontracting is common in knitwear. Many factories send printing, embroidery or washing to specialist workshops, and some move part of the sewing elsewhere when their own lines are full. It is not a problem in itself. The risk is subcontracting you do not know about, because the workshop you approved, the standards you agreed and sometimes the country of origin on the label may no longer match the goods. Agree to it only once you know where the work is going and how it will be controlled.

Ask exactly what moves and where

Ask for the name and address of each subcontractor, which operations it will do, and for which styles, colours and quantities. A print shop doing the logos is a different risk from a second sewing unit making half the hoodies. Ask whether the subcontractor works for the factory regularly or is new for this order, and whether you or your inspector can visit it.

Check that the country of origin stays the same

Under the US rules of origin for textile products in 19 CFR 102.21, the origin of a cut-and-sewn garment generally follows where it is wholly assembled. If any assembly moves to a workshop in another country, the origin, and therefore the "Made in" label and the shipping documents, may change. CBP requires imported goods to be correctly marked with their country of origin, so confirm in writing that all assembly stays in the declared country, or update the labels and paperwork before goods ship.

Keep the same standards and references

The subcontractor should work from the same approved sample, specification sheet and trims as the main factory. Ask the factory to pass on the approved sample and measurement chart, not just a photo. For printing, the approved strike-off and ink system should be shared, so colour and hand feel match across the order.

Inspect the subcontracted work

Ask how the factory checks work coming back from the subcontractor. If sewing is split, ask that goods from each unit be kept identifiable in cartons, so that your final inspection, sampled under a plan such as ISO 2859-1, can include pieces from each source. A problem found in one unit can then be traced and reworked without opening every carton.

Put it in the purchase order

Add a clause that no operation may be subcontracted without your written approval, and that the main factory remains responsible for quality, delivery and compliance for all work, wherever it is done. Approving subcontracting by email for this order, with the named workshops, keeps a clear record.