How should we specify print colours for tees so they match our brand colours across factories?
A colour reference is a target, not a guarantee. Fabric, ink and finish change the result, so approve a strike-off on the real fabric and agree a measured tolerance.
Our brand blue prints slightly different on each factory’s tees, even though we gave the same Pantone number. Which parts of the colour specification are missing?
Main answer
A reference such as a Pantone number tells the printer what colour is wanted, but the colour that ends up on a tee depends on the ink, the fabric’s colour and texture, the printing method and the curing. A Pantone swatch on a printed card will not look the same on a navy cotton tee or a polyester jersey. A full colour specification covers the reference, the process and the tolerance.
Give the process, not only the number
State the print method, the ink type, the base fabric and its colour, the number of layers and whether the print has an underbase. A bright colour on a dark tee often needs a white underbase to show true, so the same colour on a white tee needs different handling. Tell every factory which reference system and which edition to use.
Approve a strike-off
Ask for a strike-off, a test print, on the actual fabric in the actual colour, and approve it in writing. Keep a sealed copy. The strike-off is the standard that bulk is compared with. Check it again after washing, because some inks change slightly; a rub test such as ISO 105-X12 can show whether colour comes off by friction.
Measure the difference
Visual judgement varies with the light and the person. A spectrophotometer measures colour and can express the difference between bulk and standard as a number. ISO 105-J03 describes the calculation of colour differences for textiles using the CMC formula. Agree with the printer which formula, illuminant and instrument are used, and set a limit, for example a maximum difference value chosen after seeing samples. Choose it with the printer, not by guess.
Viewing conditions
Agree the light under which colours are compared, the same for every factory, and the viewing angle.
Keep it consistent
Put the specification in the tech pack, and share one approved strike-off, or a measured file, with every factory. When you add a new fabric or a new printer, treat it as a new colour approval and run a fresh strike-off, because a colour that matched on one base can drift on another. Record the approval date, the instrument settings and the person who approved each colour, so that a later dispute can be settled against the same standard.
Sources and further reading
- ISO 105-J03:2009 — Colour fastness: calculation of colour differences
- ISO 105-X12:2016 — Colour fastness to rubbing
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd share the same approved strike-off and written tolerance with every printer, and not rely on the reference number alone.
Merchandising perspective
Brand colour is what customers recognise, so I'd spend time on the strike-off for the two or three colours that matter most.
QC perspective
We'd compare bulk with the sealed standard under the agreed light and measure with an instrument where the tolerance is numeric.
Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.
Contact Knitwear BaseRelated products
Related articles
- Adding Cardigans and Knit Tops to a Wholesale Knitwear Line
- Knitwear MOQ and Sampling: What to Expect From a Knit Factory
- How can a fashion brand select the right knitwear factory?
- Garment Manufacturer China: How Factory Size and Structure Change What You Actually Get
- Apparel Fabric Sourcing China: Fabric Selection, MOQ and Mill Lead Time
- Bulk Clothing Production China: Scaling Volume Without Losing Specification Control
- How to Start a Private Label Clothing Brand: Assets, Sequence and First Order Economics
- Modal Clothing Manufacturer: Softness, Colour Retention and Where It Falls Short
- Bamboo Fabric Clothing Manufacturer: Processing Route, Stability and Labelling
- Custom Gym Wear Manufacturer: Training Construction, Print Durability and Programme Fit
