The most useful thing to know about apparel manufacturers is that most problems come from unclear terms, not bad sewing. Quotes, samples, inspections and shipping each use their own vocabulary, and a word such as “FOB”, “MOQ” or “approved” can mean different things to you and the factory. Below are the terms that matter most, what they mean for your order, and what to put in writing.
For how factories are organised and how an order flows, see how apparel manufacturers work. For how to vet a supplier, see what to know about apparel vendors.
Quoting terms
| Term | What it means | What to agree |
|---|---|---|
| Tech pack | The document describing the garment: sketches, measurements, materials, construction, labels and packing | Send one before asking for prices; quotes without it are not comparable (see tech pack for a basic tee) |
| MOQ (minimum order quantity) | The smallest order the factory will accept, often per style and per colour | Whether it applies per style, colour or size, and the surcharge for going below it (see minimums per colour) |
| CMT and full package | CMT: the factory sews your materials. Full package: the factory also sources the materials | Which one the quote covers, and who pays if materials are late or faulty |
| GSM | Fabric weight in grams per square metre | Whether it is measured before or after washing, and the tolerance (see GSM after washing) |
| Lead time | Time from order or approval to ready goods | The start point (deposit, PP approval or fabric arrival) and the end point (ex-factory or delivered) |
Sample and approval terms
| Term | What it means | What to agree |
|---|---|---|
| Lab dip | A small piece of fabric dyed to match your colour reference | The light source and reference used to judge the match (see lab dip approval) |
| Strike-off | A test print or embroidery on the real fabric | That bulk decoration is checked against it |
| Fit sample | A sample made to check shape and measurements | Who wears or measures it, and how corrections are recorded |
| PP (pre-production) sample | A sample made with bulk fabric and trims, approved before cutting | Never skip it for new styles or changed materials (see skipping the PP sample) |
| Sealed sample | The approved sample, labelled and kept by both sides as the reference for bulk | What it is the reference for, and who keeps it (see sealed sample record) |
Quality terms
| Term | What it means | What to agree |
|---|---|---|
| Tolerance | The allowed difference from a specified measurement, for example ±1 cm on chest width | Tolerances for each key measurement in the tech pack |
| AQL | Acceptance quality limit: the sampling system, usually ISO 2859-1, that sets how many pieces are checked and how many defects are allowed | The AQL level for major and minor defects, the inspection level and the edition of the standard (see which ISO 2859 edition) |
| Major and minor defect | Major: likely to cause a return or failure. Minor: a small fault unlikely to affect use | A defect list with examples (see open seams and broken stitches) |
| Final inspection | Checking finished, mostly packed goods before shipment | Who inspects, who pays, and what happens if it fails (see options after a failed inspection) |
Shipping and customs terms
| Term | What it means | What to agree |
|---|---|---|
| Incoterms® (FOB, EXW, CIF, DDP…) | ICC rules that set who pays for transport and where risk passes from seller to buyer | The rule and the named place, for example “FOB Shenzhen” (see who insures the shipment) |
| HTS code | The U.S. tariff classification that sets the duty rate; knitted and woven garments are in different chapters (61 and 62) | The importer is responsible for the classification, not the factory (see who decides the HTS code) |
| Landed cost | Price plus freight, insurance, duty and fees to your warehouse | Compare suppliers on landed cost, not unit price |
Label and compliance terms (U.S. examples)
- Fibre content, origin and RN: under 16 CFR Part 303, clothing labels show fibre content, country of origin and the responsible business by name or RN number (see RN or company name).
- Care label: the Care Labeling Rule (16 CFR Part 423) requires care instructions on most clothing.
- Flammability and certificates: clothing textiles must meet 16 CFR Part 1610; the CPSC explains when a General Certificate of Conformity is needed for adult clothing and the extra testing, Children’s Product Certificate and tracking label rules for children’s clothing.
The factory can help with labels and tests, but the brand or importer remains responsible for compliance in its market.
Facts that catch new buyers out
- Factories have seasons. Capacity is tight before major retail seasons, and many Chinese factories stop for weeks around Chinese New Year (see ordering around Chinese New Year).
- The sample room is not the production line. A perfect sample does not prove bulk quality; inspections do.
- “Approved” should be written down. Keep a dated record of every approval and every change.
- A very low quote needs checking before you accept it (see quotes far below the others).
Working with Knitwear Base
We make knitwear such as T-shirts, hoodies, underwear and loungewear, and we use these terms in our quotes and approvals so each stage is clear. Send your tech pack or reference sample through our contact page, and see the Knitwear Talk section for specific questions on fabric, labels and quality.
Sources and further reading
- ISO 2859-1, Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes (AQL)
- ICC, Incoterms® 2020 rules
- USITC, Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States, Chapter 61: Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted
- USITC, Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States, Chapter 62: Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 303, Rules under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
- eCFR, 16 CFR Part 423, Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel
- CPSC, Clothing (FAQ): flammability, lead, tracking labels and certificates
Rules and standards are summarised from their official pages for general guidance; this is not legal advice. Check the current version and the requirements of your own market before you rely on them.
