Making a sample is real work for a factory. Someone has to make or adjust the pattern, source or knit fabric, find trims, sew the garment and often print or embroider it. For a new style with your own fabric and fit, the cost can be significant, and factories charge a fee to cover it and to filter out buyers who are not serious. A factory offering free samples is not necessarily better; it may be recovering the cost in the bulk price, or offering a stock style rather than true development.

What the fee should cover

Ask for a written sampling quote that lists the sample types, such as a first fit sample, a revised fit sample and a pre-production sample, with how many pieces and sizes each includes. It should say whether the fee includes pattern making, fabric development, print or embroidery set-up, and courier costs. Check how many rounds of correction are included before extra charges apply.

Fabric and trims

Development samples are often made in available fabric of a similar type rather than your exact bulk fabric. That is normal for fit, but agree which sample stage will use the real fabric, colour and trims, because that is the sample you will approve bulk against.

Credit against bulk

Many factories credit part or all of the sampling fee against the first bulk order above a stated quantity. If that is offered, put the condition and amount in writing. If not, ask whether the fee can be reduced for a confirmed order.

Timing and delivery

Agree the lead time for each sample stage and how samples will be sent. For courier costs, state clearly who pays. Incoterms rules are written for the sale of goods and are normally used for bulk shipments, but naming the delivery terms for samples avoids surprises.

Ownership

State who owns the patterns and artwork developed for you, and whether the factory may sell the same design to others. If you may move production later, ask for the pattern files as part of the fee.

Treat the sampling stage as a trial of the factory. Communication, accuracy and timing on samples are a good indicator of how bulk will go.