Ring spinning and open-end (rotor) spinning are two ways of turning cotton fibre into yarn. Ring spinning draws the fibres out and twists them gradually, which gives a yarn with fibres well aligned along its length. Open-end spinning feeds separated fibres into a fast rotor that twists them together, which is quicker and cheaper but leaves the fibres less parallel. For the same yarn count, ring-spun yarn is generally stronger, smoother and softer to the touch, while open-end yarn feels drier and a little coarser.

What customers notice

A tee knitted from ring-spun yarn usually has a smoother surface that takes print detail well and feels softer against the skin. Open-end jersey often feels firmer and slightly rough, and is common in budget promotional tees and heavier fabrics. Both can make a durable tee; the difference is mostly in hand feel, surface and perceived quality.

Cost and availability

Open-end spinning is faster and can use shorter fibres, so open-end yarn and fabric usually cost less. Ring-spun yarn can be carded or combed; combed ring-spun is the more expensive route because short fibres are removed first. Ask each supplier to state the spinning method and whether the yarn is carded or combed, so you compare like with like.

What to check

Do not rely on the yarn name alone. Compare the fabrics as finished tees: feel, surface after washing, and pilling. Check fabric weight with a tolerance using ASTM D3776, wash garments with a named procedure such as ISO 6330 at your label settings, and compare pilling with a method such as ASTM D3512 on washed fabric. Results also depend on cotton quality, yarn count, knit tightness and finishing.

What to specify

Write the spinning method, carded or combed, yarn count, fibre content, fabric weight with tolerance and shrinkage limits in the specification, and keep the approved fabric swatch and washed sample as the bulk reference. If a supplier wants to change the yarn type, treat it as a fabric change that needs new approval.

If price is the main driver, an open-end tee can be a fair choice for event or promotional ranges, as long as the product description does not suggest a softer premium yarn.