Our new tees smell strongly of chemicals when the carton is opened. What should we ask the factory?
A smell can come from finishes, inks, adhesives or damp storage. It is a quality complaint to investigate, and tests or certificates can show what is and is not present.
Our last shipment of printed tees smelled strongly when we opened the cartons, and a few customers complained about it. The factory says it is normal and will go away. How do we investigate, and what do we ask?
Main answer
A strong smell in a new carton is a quality problem even if it fades, because customers notice it and some stop using the garment. The cause is often a finish, softener, printing ink or adhesive that was not fully dried or aired. Damp storage or packing can also produce a musty smell. A smell by itself does not prove that a harmful substance is present, but it is a reason to ask questions and test.
Find where the smell comes from
Open sealed cartons and note whether the smell is stronger in prints, labels, plain areas or the poly bags. Compare unprinted garments, printed ones and the packaging separately. A smell tied to the print points to the ink or curing; a smell on all pieces points to a fabric finish; a smell only in the bags points to the packaging. Photograph and record carton numbers.
Ask what was applied
Ask the factory and mill for a list of finishes, softeners, inks, adhesives and treatments applied to the garment, and for the safety data or specification for each. Ask whether the garments were aired before packing, and how long printed pieces cured. Check how and where cartons were stored before shipment.
Tests that exist
ISO 14184-1 is a method for free and hydrolysed formaldehyde in textiles by water extraction. Some retailers and markets set requirements for formaldehyde or other substances, so ask your customers or market whether any limits apply. Third-party certification, such as OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, tests threads, buttons and accessories against a list of harmful substances, and certificate numbers can be checked online with the OEKO-TEX Label Check. Check that the certificate covers your product and supplier.
What to do with the stock
Air the garments in a ventilated space, re-test a few after airing, and ask a lab to test affected pieces if the cause is unknown. Do not send stock to customers until the smell is resolved or you know why. Agree who pays for airing, rework or replacement.
Prevent it next time
Add an odour check to final inspection, and require airing and full curing before packing. Specify that cartons stay dry and are packed with the garments fully dry.
Sources and further reading
- ISO 14184-1:2011 — Textiles: determination of formaldehyde, free and hydrolysed (water extraction)
- OEKO-TEX — STANDARD 100
- OEKO-TEX — Label Check (verify a certificate or label number)
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd ask the factory for the list of finishes and inks used and put an odour check and airing step into the next order.
Merchandising perspective
Customers judge the product by what they smell when they open the bag, so I'd treat odour as a defect, not a side effect.
QC perspective
We'd sniff-test sealed cartons by area, separate printed from plain pieces and send affected samples to a lab.
Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.
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