Our pre-shipment inspection of 3,000 tees failed. What are our options and who decides?

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Flat illustration of a seam with a broken stitch, a magnifying glass over stitches and a thread spool

Our pre-shipment inspection of 3,000 tees failed. What are our options and who decides?

A fail means the sample found more defects than the plan allows. Decide among sorting and reworking, re-inspecting, accepting with a documented concession or rejecting, using terms agreed in the PO.

Defects & QC DiagnosisKnitwear Talk3 min readKnitwear Base Editorial Team
Flat illustration of an inspection checklist, a magnifying glass over stitches and a measuring tape
Buyer question

The inspector reports a fail on our 3,000-piece tee order: too many major defects in the sample. The factory says the shipping date is fixed and asks us to accept. What are our options?

Main answer
Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Main answer

A failed inspection is information, not a verdict. Under an attribute sampling plan such as ISO 2859-1, the inspector draws a sample from the lot, counts defects and compares the count with an acceptance number and a rejection number set for the sample size and the quality level you chose. Reaching the rejection number means the lot did not meet the agreed standard. What happens next depends on what you agreed in the purchase order.

First, understand the defects

Read the report to see which defects caused the fail and whether they are systematic. A single defect type found across the lot, such as a wrong measurement or a wrong label, can usually be fixed with sorting and rework. Scattered random defects such as stitching faults suggest a quality problem across the lot. Ask for photos and for the defect classification, which should follow the definitions in your quality agreement.

The usual options

Options include: have the factory sort the whole lot 100 percent and rework or remove defective pieces, then re-inspect with a fresh sample; accept the lot as it is with a documented concession, perhaps with a price reduction or credit; accept part of the lot and hold the rest; or reject the lot. The ISO 2859-1 system also has switching rules that move to tightened inspection after repeated rejections, which you can use for later orders from the same factory.

Costs and time

Settle who pays for sorting, rework and the second inspection before anything is done; the PO should say, and the answer is usually that the supplier pays. A late shipment has its own cost. Under the Incoterms rule in your contract, risk passes to you at a defined point, so check the delivery point before the factory ships anything uninspected. A date pressure is not a reason to ship goods that fail.

Document the decision

Whatever you choose, confirm it in writing: which defects, what remedy, who pays, the new inspection date and the new ship date. If you accept with a concession, write it as a one-off for this lot. Keep the report and photos for the supplier review.

Prevent a repeat

Ask the factory for a corrective action on the root cause, and add an inline inspection on the next order so problems appear before the lot is finished.

Sources and further reading

Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.

Three perspectives on this question

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Purchasing perspective

I'd write the remedy and who pays for sorting and re-inspection into the PO before production, so a fail does not become a negotiation.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Merchandising perspective

I'd work out what a late but sound delivery costs versus an on-time faulty one, and decide on facts, not on pressure.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
QC perspective

We'd classify each defect, check whether it is systematic and re-inspect with a new random sample after any sorting.

Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.

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