Should our zip-up hoodies use metal teeth or coil zippers, and how do we test them?
Metal looks premium and is heavier; coil is lighter and more flexible. Both can fail at the slider, the stop or the tape. Specify type, size, finish and a strength test on the finished hoodie.
The factory offers metal teeth zippers at a higher price or coil zippers at a lower price for our zip hoodies. Neither sample failed in handling. How do we choose, and what should we test?
Main answer
A zipper has teeth or a coil, a tape that is sewn to the garment, a slider and top and bottom stops. Metal and coil types behave differently in everyday use. Metal teeth are heavier and look more premium. Coil zippers are lighter and more flexible, and they follow curves and stretch with knit fabric more easily. Both types are used on hoodies, and the choice is partly about feel and price.
Metal teeth
Metal zippers give a sturdy, premium feel and a clear sound. Weaknesses to check include a rough or sharp edge, plating that wears or discolours, teeth that catch on fabric, and extra weight that can drag a lightweight front down. In washing, metal can scratch other items and damage prints, so the garment may need the zip closed for washing.
Coil zippers
Coil zippers are lighter, quieter and flexible, and are often chosen for sporty and everyday hoodies. They can be more prone to waving or puckering if the tape and fabric are not matched, and a coil can separate if forced or if the slider is worn. Check slider lock and pull for smooth running.
Tests that exist
ASTM D2061 covers several strength tests for zippers, including chain or element strength, slider lock holding, pull-off tests and other tests for zipper performance. Because no single test decides suitability, ask for the tests that match how a hoodie zip fails. Test the zipper sewn into the finished hoodie, not only on its own, and test after washing with a named procedure such as ISO 6330.
Fit with the garment
The zipper tape should be stable and match the body fabric in shrinkage, or the front will wave. Choose zipper length with an allowance for the garment length after washing, and check that the top stop and bottom stop are secured firmly. A zipper garage or tape cover at the neck prevents scratching.
What to specify
Write the zipper type, size, finish, colour, slider and puller style, tape fibre and supplier. Ask for the brand, if any, and keep an approved sample. At inspection, run the zip fully several times on sampled pieces and look for catching, waviness or loose stops.
Sources and further reading
- ASTM D2061 — Strength Tests for Zippers
- ISO 6330:2021 — Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
- eCFR — 16 CFR Part 423, Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd ask for the zipper maker's name and specification and price metal and coil on the same size, so the premium is clear.
Merchandising perspective
Metal reads premium on a hoodie, but a zipper that sticks costs more in returns than the price gap between the two types.
QC perspective
We'd run the zipper up and down on sampled finished hoodies and wash a few to check waving and finish wear.
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