Should our fibre label say spandex or elastane? We sell in the US and the EU.
The US textile rules use generic names such as spandex; the EU regulation lists elastane. Use the name each market requires, and check the official lists.
Our tees are 95% cotton and 5% stretch fibre. Our US label says spandex, but a European retailer asked us to change it to elastane. Can one label carry both, and which name is correct?
Main answer
Spandex and elastane are two names for the same kind of stretch fibre, and each name comes from a different set of rules. In the United States, fibre content labels under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act must use the generic fibre names set out in the FTC rules, 16 CFR Part 303, and spandex is the generic name used there. In the European Union, Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 lists the fibre names that may be used on labels, and elastane is the name it uses. Each market expects its own name.
What the US rules ask for
The FTC rules require fibre content by generic name and percentage by weight, in order of predominance. The rules include a list of generic names and how they are defined, and the FTC has updated these provisions, including in the 2014 amendments published in the Federal Register. A trademark name may appear alongside the generic name under the conditions the rules set, but it does not replace it.
What the EU regulation asks for
Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 requires textile products to carry a label or marking showing the fibre composition, using the names listed in its annex. It also covers matters such as language requirements in member states and tolerances for fibre percentages. Read the annex on EUR-Lex rather than relying on a label supplier's template, since templates are often written for one market only.
One label for both markets
Many brands print both names on one label, for example by listing elastane and spandex together, or use separate labels for each market. Whether a combined wording works depends on how each rule treats extra words on the label, so confirm it against both texts or with a compliance adviser before you print a large run.
Keep the percentages consistent
Whatever name you use, the percentage must reflect the actual fibre content. Ask the mill for its fibre composition data per fabric lot, and consider independent fibre content testing, especially when you change mills. A label that is correct in name but wrong in percentage still fails.
Keep one master label file per style with the market version clearly marked, so a reorder does not go out with the wrong name.
Sources and further reading
- eCFR — 16 CFR Part 303, Textile Fiber Products Identification Act rules
- EUR-Lex — Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 on textile fibre names and labelling
- Federal Register — 2014 amendments to the Textile Rules
Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.
Three perspectives on this question
Purchasing perspective
I'd ask the label supplier to keep separate, named artwork files for US and EU versions, so the factory cannot pick the wrong one at reorder.
Merchandising perspective
Retailers often check fibre names in their vendor compliance reviews. I'd confirm each retailer's label requirements before artwork goes to print.
QC perspective
We'd check the label wording on bulk against the approved artwork for that market, and photograph it in the inspection report.
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