Our tee is 96% cotton and 4% spandex. Can the label just say “cotton/spandex”?

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Our tee is 96% cotton and 4% spandex. Can the label just say "cotton/spandex"?

US fibre labelling rules expect percentages by weight. Fibres under 5% have their own rule, and spandex is one of the named exceptions, so check the exact wording before you print.

Labels, Packaging & ComplianceKnitwear Talk3 min readKnitwear Base Editorial Team
Flat illustration of stretch arrows, a knit fabric swatch and a thread spool
Buyer question

We are launching a private-label T-shirt that is 96% cotton and 4% spandex. Our designer wants the care label to say "cotton/spandex blend" without numbers. Is that allowed for the US market, and how should the 4% be shown?

Main answer
Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Main answer

For the US market, a label that names the fibres without percentages is not the usual way to comply. The rules under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, set out in 16 CFR Part 303, require the fibre content to be disclosed by generic fibre name and percentage by weight, in order of predominance. Your label should state the percentages, for example "96% Cotton, 4% Spandex". Confirm the final wording against the regulation or with your compliance adviser.

The under-5% rule and its exception

Part 303 generally requires fibres present at less than 5% to be shown as "other fiber" or "other fibers" rather than by name. There are exceptions where a small amount of a fibre has a clearly established functional significance, and elastomeric fibres such as spandex are the typical example in apparel. Their stretch is the reason they are in the garment. Read the relevant section of Part 303 for the exact conditions, because whether you may name a small percentage depends on that functional significance.

Generic names, not trade names alone

The rules use generic fibre names. The FTC's 2014 amendments to the Textile Rules also updated the incorporated ISO 2076 standard for generic names. In the US, "spandex" is the generic name; "elastane" is the ISO name. Part 303 has provisions on using ISO names, so check which form you intend to use. A trademark name can appear alongside the generic name but should not replace it.

Other required information

Fibre content is only part of the label. Part 303 also covers country of origin and the identity of the manufacturer or dealer, which can be a name or an RN number. It also covers where labels must appear; for garments with a neck, origin is expected at the inside centre of the neck. Care instructions fall under a separate rule, the FTC Care Labeling Rule. Plan the label artwork with all of these at once so you print it only once.

Keep the label tied to the fabric

Base the percentages on the fabric supplier's composition data for the bulk fabric, not on the development swatch. If the blend changes between sample and bulk, the label must change too.

Sources and further reading

Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.

Three perspectives on this question

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Purchasing perspective

I ask the mill for the composition on the fabric test report for the bulk lot and attach it to the label approval. If the spandex percentage moves at bulk, I want it caught before the labels are printed, because reprinting woven labels costs time.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Merchandising perspective

The marketing copy can talk about stretch and softness, but the product page and hangtag fibre claims should match the sewn-in label. I keep one approved fibre statement and reuse it everywhere.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
QC perspective

At inspection we check that the label wording matches the approved artwork and the order's composition, and that the label sits where the spec says. A correct label in the wrong position is still a nonconformity on our report.

Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.

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