Better Cotton is a farm-level programme, and the Better Cotton Initiative publishes a Claims Framework that says who can say what. Version 4.1, published on 31 October 2025, is the edition checked for this answer. Because BCI can update it, check the current version before you print anything.

Physical and mass balance cotton

The Framework separates physical BCI Cotton from mass balance BCI Cotton. Physical cotton is tracked through the supply chain. Mass balance means the cotton is not physically traceable to the end product: farmers benefit from demand in equivalent volumes, but your tee may contain no Better Cotton fibre.

What can go on a product

At product level, the only claim permitted is the BCI Cotton Label, which signals that a product contains physical BCI Cotton. For the consumer label, the Framework requires that all of the cotton in the product or component is physical BCI Cotton, with a minimum share of the product weight and the percentage shown when it is not the majority fibre. Mass balance cannot support the consumer label. Mass balance participation claims are for organisations only and never at product level.

Who may use the label

The consumer label is for BCI Retailer/Brand Members that have completed claims training, are certified against the Chain of Custody Standard, hold a scope certificate and have signed a trade mark sub-licence. Eligible channels include online or printed hang tags, sewn-in labels, catalogues, web store pages and in-store signage. A claim submitted by a Retailer/Brand Member is reviewed by BCI before use. A supplier saying your cotton is BCI is therefore not enough to print the label.

The older mass balance mark

BCI says the mass balance on-product mark had to be out of circulation by May 2026. If a supplier offers hang tags or labels from earlier years, ask whether they are still permitted.

What to ask and write

Ask your supplier whether the cotton is physical or mass balance, and for the scope certificate and chain of custody documents. If you are not a certified member, avoid product-level wording and consider a plain statement that matches your actual membership or sourcing, using the Framework’s approved wording.