Should our zip-up hoodie label tell customers to close the zip before washing, and how do we test it?

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Should our zip-up hoodie label tell customers to close the zip before washing, and how do we test it?

Test the hoodie washed with the zip open and closed, and with the hood strings in. If one way causes snags or distortion, add clear advice without conflicting with the required wash instruction.

Wash, Care & DurabilityKnitwear Talk3 min readKnitwear Base Editorial Team
Flat illustration of a T-shirt, a water drop and soap bubbles
Buyer question

Returns on our zip hoodies mention snagged fleece, wavy front tapes and scratched prints. Some customers wash them open, some closed. Our label only gives temperature and drying. What should it say?

Main answer
Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Main answer

A zip-up hoodie has hard parts, a zip and sometimes metal tips on drawcords, that rub against the soft parts and other items in a wash load. The required care instruction covers temperature, cycle and drying, as the FTC Care Labeling Rule in 16 CFR Part 423 describes, but it does not say how to handle the zip. Whether to add advice depends on what your own tests show.

What can go wrong

With the zip open, the teeth can snag fleece or other garments in the load, and the sides of the zip tape can twist or stretch. With the zip closed, tension on the tape from agitation can distort a front where the tape shrinks differently from the body fabric. Metal zips can scratch prints on the same garment or others. Drawcord tips can also catch.

Test both ways

Wash sample hoodies with a named procedure such as ISO 6330 using the programme in your label, and run each for the target number of cycles with the zip open and with it closed, with and without a mixed load. Compare the front for waves and puckering, and the fleece and prints for snags and scratches. Check that the zip still runs smoothly; ASTM D2061 describes strength tests for zippers if you need to check that function after washing.

Choose the advice

If closing the zip helps and does no harm, say so in plain words, for example next to the wash instruction. If turning the hoodie inside out protects the print, say that. Keep any extra advice consistent with the temperature and drying instruction, and make sure the advice is something you actually tested.

Fix the cause where you can

If the front waves after washing, the tape and fabric shrink differently, so the better fix is a tape that matches the fabric. If snagging is common, a fabric with a less open surface or a zipper garage that covers the top of the slider may help more than a label.

Keep records

Store the test photos with the style and repeat the test if you change the zip, the tape or the fabric.

Sources and further reading

Standards and rules are summarised from their published scope or official guidance. Use the current edition and confirm requirements for your market.

Three perspectives on this question

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Purchasing perspective

I'd ask the zip supplier how their tape shrinks and request a washed hoodie sample before accepting a tape change.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
Merchandising perspective

Customers rarely read long label text, so I'd keep any extra advice short and put it where the wash instruction is.

Knitwear Base Editorial Team
QC perspective

We'd wash sampled hoodies zipped and unzipped and compare front tape waves, snags and print damage.

Working on a similar program?Send your tech pack, fabric references and test requirements. We reply with a quote and the questions we need answered.

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